Top tips for large scale modellers

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magpies
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Top tips for large scale modellers

Post by magpies » Sun May 16, 2010 6:01 pm

As you guys have been so good to us in the past with info and parts I intend to share at least one top tip a month to help with your build/running and maybe your wallets,please feel free to join in. I am sure not everyone will agree with the techniques/methods but they work for us so here goes, todays top tip" Painting your model"
You have proberly noticed that the larger scale projects just eat up the paint and it's not cheep, so here's what we do to save on the expensive top coat, undercoat/prime as usual then instead of trying to cover the base with your Tamiya TS-3 dark yellow say, use a automotive spray paint with a colour/shade as close as you can get ( maybe biege no 3), be it gloss or whatever it won't matter. Then when you are happy that all looks ok under the paint and you have finished bumping and chipping the colour as you fit the detail parts, you can now spray the top coat/coats with a fraction of what you would have used as the under coat an't far off!
cheers Phil.
Last edited by magpies on Fri Jun 04, 2010 8:22 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Colonel_Kramer
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Re: Top tips to make a build that much easyer.

Post by Colonel_Kramer » Mon May 17, 2010 9:54 am

If you go into a good car paint supplier and quote a RAL number, they should be able to make that up in any quantity you want. I got 1/2 litre of RAL 6003 matt made up Saturday, £17. They can normally put it in spray cans for you but that is not a cheap way to do it. If they are really good you can normally match from a humbrol paint tin or anything else. My 1/2 litre when thinned will give me at least a litre using a spray gun, considerably more if I use an airbrush.

Another tip, when attempting to make a rolled armour effect, you can spend a fortune on Mr Surfacer 500, or get a tub of car body filler, and thin it with cellulose thinners to the point it is like a very thick sticky paint. Use a wide flat brush about 1/2" wide and trim it so that the bush hairs are short, roughly half the original length. Now stipple the thinned body filler onto the surface. To make sink marks just push the brush harder on the surface and twist. Don't forget the body filler will dry quicker than paint and you may beed to mix up serveral batches. When it's all done, lightly sand to the required effect is achieved. Clean the brush in thinners.
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magpies
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Re: Top tips to make a build that much easyer.

Post by magpies » Thu May 20, 2010 9:41 am

Todays top tip, get the second blond chick to straddle the first chick whilst holding the camera near the first chicks bottom ! ooo sorry wrong web site!



Well it made me laugh

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Humpy
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Re: Top tips to make a build that much easyer.

Post by Humpy » Thu May 20, 2010 12:52 pm

get the second blond chick to straddle the first chick whilst holding the camera near the first chicks bottom
I think I've seen that website :o :twisted:

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magpies
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Re: Top tips for large scale modellers

Post by magpies » Sun Jun 13, 2010 6:14 pm

This months top tip,When your not using the model it's important to keep the suspension in good order and so preserve the correct ride hieght, we have put together a simple strecher made from 50x50mm timber, this is then placed under the belly plate, it needs to be long enough to poke out the ends by around 150 to 200mm, you can then lift each corner in turn and place a timber block cut just long enough to hold maybe 80 to 90% of the vehicles wieght. This will take most of the load off the springs or torsion bars and in the mk1 case off the hull sides which will over time slump inwards and cause the road wheels to run incorrectly on the tracks eventually wearing to a nice wedge shape. This method will also help with the longevity of the rubber tyred road wheels which can become flattend when stored.
If you desire and your not worried about the finish on your bench you can also run the tracks round under it's own power to check functions etc without the risk of it shooting off the bench.

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