Sd.Kfz.250 R/C?

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007Kiwi
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Re: Sd.Kfz.250 R/C?

Post by 007Kiwi » Mon Sep 04, 2006 7:40 am

Hi Funker, Thanks for pictorialising your progress. Its been really helpful for planning down here.

Why not use the axels supplied but change the screw only?
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Re: Sd.Kfz.250 R/C?

Post by FUNKER » Mon Sep 04, 2006 1:47 pm

Thank you for the encouragement. :D
The ally axles supplied are thicker walled than the steel axles so the thread is smaller than 6 mm and a smaller cap head would have to be used. :(
When wheel is on steel axle with 6 mm cap head the fit is much better. 8)
When I get around to putting the wheels on I will post a snap. :lol:
Also when in the future Ally or pressed steel wheels become available I will be glad that I change to steel. :idea:

This is the sort of bearing I plan to use for the main drive axle.
[img][img]http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/ ... CN1338.jpg[/img][/img]
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Re: Sd.Kfz.250 R/C?

Post by FUNKER » Sat Sep 09, 2006 11:32 am

The gearbox and motor as supplied :shock:
Image
Assemblled :D
[/img]Image
With cover on :roll:
Image[/img]
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Re: Sd.Kfz.250 R/C?

Post by FUNKER » Tue Sep 12, 2006 5:51 pm

Wheel fittings:

Image

[/img]Image

The first is as supplied and second is 6 mm snap head.

What I need now is a hub cap. Any suggestions please?
Patrick

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Re: Sd.Kfz.250 R/C?

Post by ArmorpaxUK » Tue Sep 12, 2006 6:10 pm

Hi Funker,

Panzerwerk do a full resin wheel hub set, excellent quality and a good price, possibly worth you taking a look, I used them on the 250 I did a while back,


oh b**ger, a sensible answer, sorry everyone won't let it happen again :roll:

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Re: Sd.Kfz.250 R/C?

Post by FUNKER » Tue Sep 12, 2006 6:21 pm

Dave,
Thank you for your information, I will certainly look into buying them from panzerwerk.
Patrick

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Re: Sd.Kfz.250 R/C?

Post by 007Kiwi » Thu Sep 14, 2006 12:08 am

Funker, I take it you did put the bearing upgrade option into the gearbox? Instead of the STD bronze bush option.... Makes it smoother to use.

I also, for the truck, had geared it down to 3-1 with the introduction of this simple unit =>
Image

Image

This gives extremely good low speed movement. Something Humpy probably wouldnt like. :twisted: But really great for backing a trailer or in my case a gun for my Panzergrens......

Cheers

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Re: Sd.Kfz.250 R/C?

Post by FUNKER » Thu Sep 14, 2006 1:35 pm

Brett,
No I did not as I did not know about the upgrade. :oops:
Ditto for the 3 to 1 geared unit as I did not know about that as well. :(

Please could you let me know more :?: and the best place to get them :idea:

I think I am the ignorant leading those who know much more than me :!:

Angels fear to tread etc :cry:
Patrick

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Re: Sd.Kfz.250 R/C?

Post by Humpy » Thu Sep 14, 2006 6:13 pm

This gives extremely good low speed movement. Something Humpy probably wouldnt like
Oh I don't know, you can't beat a good slow speed movement :lol:

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Re: Sd.Kfz.250 R/C?

Post by 007Kiwi » Thu Sep 14, 2006 8:33 pm

You naughty man H....... :oops:

Funker, I am following you. But this is what makes the board so good, the sharing of ideas..... 8)

The 3-1 is just an airplane spinner gearbox approx 30 dollars NZ (8-10) quid. I will try and find the part no and supplier details for you tonight
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Re: Sd.Kfz.250 R/C?

Post by FUNKER » Thu Sep 14, 2006 10:04 pm

I could not get a pyrogravure so I tried using a 14 amp soldering iron with a tip filed to a point. :twisted:
I have used it to simulate weldseams. :evil:
I know it looks a bit rough, but when it is rubbed down with emery or wet and dry it looks alot better. :lol:
The rubbed down section is in the forground. 8)
The 250 will look like it is constructed out of slabs of armour plate as were German tanks. :P
I have not yet solved the main joint between the top lid and bottom half of vehicle. :cry:
If I glue the lid on it could be differcult to get to the workings, but if I do not then the joint might not look good enough :(
[img][img]http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/ ... CN1395.jpg[/img][/img]
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Re: Sd.Kfz.250 R/C?

Post by FUNKER » Sun Sep 17, 2006 3:56 pm

Torch cutting.
German tank armour plating was cut out of slabs of armour plating using a flame torch. :twisted:
This left the edge with an uneven undulated finish. :(
Using a rectangular jewelers burr it is possible to simulate this finish. :D

[img][img]http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/ ... CN1398.jpg[/img][/img]

The edge above is the side section of the front armour plating in front of the engine.

I seem to have reached my limit with PHOTOBUCKET so earlier snaps will have to be deleted.
Please make copies for possible future blackmailing evidence. Thank you.
Patrick

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Re: Sd.Kfz.250 R/C?

Post by dandare01 » Sun Sep 17, 2006 9:02 pm

Looking good bud :wink:
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Re: Sd.Kfz.250 R/C?

Post by FUNKER » Mon Sep 18, 2006 11:09 am

Thank you Robert,

After cutting out the blind plastic mesh over the engine I have replaced it with some mesh from an old kitchen sieve and some 1/8 inch brass angle.

[img][img]http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/ ... CN1405.jpg[/img]
[/img]

Now that I can see it larger than life it looks like it was made out of some old sieve mesh from the kitchen and 1/8 inch angle.
The mesh is a bit wobberley as are the brass angle cuts.

[img][img]http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/ ... CN1406.jpg[/img][/img]

It looks better the further you stand back?

[img][img]http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/ ... CN1407.jpg[/img]

And even further![/img]

The present Mrs. Funker seems a bit miffed as she cannot find her favorite kitchen sieve, which her Mother gave as a wedding gift.
Patrick

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Re: Sd.Kfz.250 R/C?

Post by ArmorpaxUK » Mon Sep 18, 2006 12:01 pm

FUNKER wrote:I have not yet solved the main joint between the top lid and bottom half of vehicle. :cry:
If I glue the lid on it could be differcult to get to the workings, but if I do not then the joint might not look good enough :(
Hi Funker,

on the real deal the top plate very noticably overhangs the bottom plate, there is also a raised lip around the top of the open compartment, the answer to your problem could be as simple as a false outer skin glued to the outside of the upper body as I did on mine. This would give you the correct appearance and hide the joint below if you want to keep the top seperate,

best regards

Dave

oops, 2 sensisble answers in as many weeks, looks like i'm on the bench for the next match :lol:

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