after being hassled by Rob & Andy here's the start of my Chieftain Mk11 build. You have to post next Rob.
I acquired Bob Griffin's Chieftain 900 in late 2013 early 2014, it was in pretty bad way after having been kept under cover outside & in several parts. The tracks were in bits & were in a big box, turret was off, barrel was out, only one side had suspension housing & wheels & the rest.. a collection of about five boxes. The tank had moved home with Bob several times, & due to his circumstance at the time needed a new home. After great afternoon with Bob listening all about Chieftains I returned home with it.
The following day I had a message from Bob telling me he had found more stuff, under trip up to Gloucester & I return with three more boxes of stuff.
Although scruffy & needing a lot of work, many of the parts had been machine & made by Bob to a high standard & in 1/6 scale detail as per the original. I had most parts apart from missing wheels, wheel caps, & some running gear. But enough that I could re-make any parts.
My biggest problem, I didn't know enough about the Chieftain 900. Two were made, photos & info very rare.. Bob being the only real expert & he was moving on from tank builds. So I made the decision to step back & build the MK11 Chieftain from scratch using some of Bobs parts.
A few photos of Bobs 900 before my start on the Chieftain MK11 Build
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I'll post some more photos in the next few days ...The MK 11 Chieftain Build starts.
I'm looking forward to reading some more, especially Rob's CR1.
I will look out the CAD files i drew up for bob and post some pictures if you like?
Will send you the files if you have a need for them as 3d printer friendly stl's.
I plowed through loads of photos on the internet, read two great books on Chieftains by Bob Griffin, bought the Tamiya MK5 Chieftain kit & the accurate armour MK11 conversion kit before I was ready to take the leap into the build.
1st the hull electronics, motors, radio gear, & all the wiring was removed, tested & boxed up.
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Then I started on building a new hull, loads of measuring, & re-measuring
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I also built a new rear exhaust outlet & flitter box. And a couple of ally rear mud guards.
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The rear exhaust box is removable for maintaining the planed smoker pipes.
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The final drive housing had been 3D printed but I only had the right hand side. So with some help I managed to draw up a left hand side & get that side 3D printed. I was then worried about the strain on the printed housings as they also carried the drive shaft through bearings in the housing. So I cast them in a more suitable material,& bolted them to the rear of the hull & molded them in. The finished housing are now really strong.
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They have ended up with a nice rough cast look, in the photo the centre bearing is not fitted.
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I build slightly differently than most people I find if I detail build areas as I go along it helps with keeping components on the tank to scale, & helps me with reference points.
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Electrical trunking under the rear exhaust box, also spare track hooks, convey lights, etc.
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That's it for today
its great to see the model being given a new lease of life!!
I really like your conduit, how did you make that?
PS those are the rapid prototypes I had drawn up for bob, I made the 3d model and bob got them printed from Armortek.
conduit made from 3 & 4mm ally rod, I think I bought a pack off eBay. I used electrical heat shrink to make the joints & 3mm nuts for the screw knuckle joins.
The ally rod is great as it so easy to shape. But you can do the same thing by sticking a wire.. eg florist wire that keeps its shape, inside plastic card tubing.
I did wonder if you had a hand in drawing the rapid prototypes. Excellent work by the way. But Bob only ever had R/H side printed off, I had no rapid prototypes for the L/H side. I had no idea you had done the drawings, would have made the job easier. Anyway I did finally produced L/H rapid prototypes a mirror copy of yours, & learnt a lot about the process. The original rapid prototypes I guess made by Armortek are a more polythene mix, than the harder plastic of our 3D prints. Looked like Bob had tried painting them , but the paint wouldn't adhere very well. Another reason why I used them as templates for re-casting in a stronger material & that the paint would adhere.
I try & post some more photos of the Chieftain over the weekend, until I'm up to date with the current build.
The mind boggles
Rob, your needing to post a build thread as well mate, I'm greedy for inspiration
PS the Armtek site is really good source of inspiration as well!!!
I've asked Possum if he has any old Honey pics.
The Cent ARV, CHALLY2 pics have all gone into the ether of the interweb. Lost and gone forever.
Rear of the Chieftain with some paint added. I always seem to prime paint as I build, somehow it helps me check for faults, & seeing the new built area in grey makes start to look solid.
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Testing the sprockets on the drive shaft bearings & making sure spacing was correct.
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Checking position of the motor mounting brackets.
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Position for the batteries under the turret ring.
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Rear turret ring bracing.
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Starting to take shape, rear sides & rear side bins added started to help stiffen up the hull. The1/6 M3A3 Stuart looks tiny compared to the Chieftain
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Ok tea break over back to work, keep finding more build photos I'll have to skip a few if it gets dull.
Rob, I'm looking forward to any and all build pictures.
Cent ARV - wow, that would have been cool
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While I worried about clearance for drive shaft gearing, started on the 1st of the Chieftains many storage bins.
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Made from 1.5mm ally sheet & brass 5mm piano hinge.
Once the final painting is finished they will be bolted to the rear mud guards, also thinking about putting the on/off switch in one bin.
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Still thinking about any drive chain problems, I started planning the building of the rear deck.
Try & post rear deck photos tomorrow.
Started with some 4mm ally sheet cut to size.
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Then I made & built the armoured centre engine, oil & water cover. And started cutting the grill holes.
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When I started building the louvres I had to make up a jig to get the angle right, & spacer to get the right distance between them.
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Part 2 of the rear grills tomorow
The two grills i did fab from styrene were a blinking nightmare, especially trying to keep them all aligned.
I liked your method, i had to do something similar and fashion a jig to hold one fin at a time in position until the styrene had set.
Brilliant effort there mate!
Anyway part 2 of the MK11 Chieftain grills.
1st photo shows mesh guards added & the grill lift handles.
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I wanted a good air flow running through the grills 1. to keep 24v motor running cool 2. intake air for the eventual smokers (needed to make a lot of the famous Chieftain smoke) & 3. to help let out the distinct Chieftain engine sounds. So I put some smaller mesh on the inside of the deck to help stop crap dropping in.
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Rear grills nearly complete with a blow over with some grey primer.
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Anti slip paint added to the engine cover armor & lift handles added to forward engine grills. Also I added the middle rubber resilient rail, I think that's what its called or rubber guards to stop the barrel depression hitting the rear deck.
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More work to do to the underside of the rear grills but getting there.
Next..... start work on the front of the Chieftain
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