*in best aussie accent.
Answer tomorrow night with photo.
Clue, you fire them when your in the sh*t and need to conduct a tactical withdrawl.
Going back a few (?) posts . . . . . . Have you thought of running 'sound' separate from motor control ? Yes I know it's another channel needed, but would sound a lot more realistic to be able to rev up ( with independent smoke control as well) and simulate gear changes as well.
One of the ' must does' on my build.
No what i have printed out is a pair of smoke grenades, mainly as they have been modelled for a few years now and i got annoyed at the printer not working, so just printed something for printing sake.
I didn't know anything about these smoke grenades. Or where they are placed on the CRARRV, but its good to see the 3D printer fired up & working again.
Good to see you back on the forum.
I'm doing that on my T-34 and BARV. Single stick driving on the RH stick and the Benedini PWM input attached to the LH stick. Means you can rev the engine before mounting an obstacle, or creep along at idle without revving the engine.
I've always been surprised at how many of the tank films on YouTube show them moving around with the engine just at an idle.
I've not tried simulating changing gear as I'm not sure the Benedini TBS Mini would allow the correct sequence of noises, but it might be configurable.
Video of it in operation is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v002RSXdV2M
I got a set of track pins from Rob to test out, brilliant design, superb quality, much better than the original p*sh.........the original links are usually porus and easily breaks.
FYI, I drilled the holes to 3.5mm and the pins lined up nicely.
PS Printer is working tonight, 10hr print..........
Whats printing now is the a-frame that holds up the main stowage beam and supports the engine lift frame.
Doesn't look like much but once combined will be a key component on the CRARRV.
Certainly. There are about a hundred out there since I started making them.
They're £49 + P&P & Paypal, which comes to £56 all in for the UK.
I'll have a bunch with me at TankMod on Saturday. I'll be with the Armortek crew.
What are you using to print these parts ?
I have fallen out of love with my 3D printer since I started trying to use ABS. The parts never seem to stick prperly, whatever I do for a brim, and they shrink badly during the printing process. I think I'll have to revert to PLA and see if I can get more practice.
I'm using an Zortrax M200, all printed in ABS and HIPS.
Some failures, but seems to be temp related or orientation specific, some of the failures have been fixable and thus not what i would class as a failure
I'm afraid I won't be at tankmod, so will would need to be via post etc.
Anyway, a couple of photos of the M200 in action, printing the A-Frame itself.....
3D current print looks big & interesting. I'm looking forward in seeing the finished print.
Most of our failures with our 3D printer in the workshop at college have been related to temp or bad printing orientation. We had a 3D printer technician advise putting our printer into a closed cabinet to keep the temperature high, as most of our printing for students projects is done over night & the workshop temperatures drop. After I built a small cabinet around the 3D printer the printing material flows or prints better & the support material is less likely to collapse.
Orientation has been a long learning curve for staff & students, we found not all shapes print well from the base up, like you we have had a lot of success printing objects on their sides or upside-down.
Looks like you have your problems sorted, happy printing
I find that printing large flat objects its best to set-up the object so it presents the largest flat surface in the z-plane.
This typically reduces the heat stresses by keeping the print area as small as possible and retaining the heat.
I agree with you that a cabinet would be the best idea. i had plans to build one, but alas no further progress made (even bought a fish tank thermometer which had a switchable circuit).
Will post more photos tonight / tomorrow when the print finishes (circa 11pm tonight).
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