I have tried elevating the long flat parts on thin sacrificial feet, this will raise the component circa 5mm from the hot build plate, so hopefully it will avoid warping as the bulk of the material is at the same temp for longer.......time will tell.
I'll print you a copy once I'm happy with the design, then will add to the for sale section.
I'm thinking of tackling the cable drum on the rear of the tank, this a common component to all three vehicles i think, do you have any good close up pictures of it?
I think its a field phone into the vehicle intercom system, i think!
Is this the cable drum your thinking of https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VBDws ... 66-h622-no
Not sure its the same as the Chieftains which looks like this https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OmIRY ... 35-h622-no
and is on the side of the turret
Fair point, look like different parts.
Anyway, I think I have finalised the Loaders / Mechanics Hatch.
Parts are printed in ZHIPS, which is very nice material, even printed in 0.19mm resolution, which is quite high. it hasten warped hurrah, also starting to understand how this printer behaves with this material.
The downside is i have printed this hatch (and every sub component) out 4 times now, so quite wasteful on print material, but its been worth it i think.
Not shown here (but will post pictures tomorrow when hinges glued in place) is that the hatch works, it also works like the real version, in the fact that one hatch locks the other in place (with the correct cushion moulded in place). I have holes for the locking latch in place, but still to print out the actual locking latch.
Photo bucket is really slow just now........
Will post some pictures of it glued up and open and closed.
Worth noting that the ZHIPS is excellent stuff, seems to be good at resisting warping, but finish is not as good as ABS, but you need to print ABS at a resolution of around 0.09mm per layer, which is much slower compared to using ZHIPS, which prints at the highest resolution of 0.14mm, the hatch was printed at 0.19mm.
To avoid warping I designed in thin feet around 5mm high, which are sacrificial, this made the whole print sit around 5mm higher than the raft. I have heard that the heat in the build plate causes a problem as the plastic at the bottom is warm by comparison to the upper layers, by putting in some artificial height you get the part to be more uniform in temperature which helps to resist warping.
There seems to be a shortage of ZHIPS just now in the UK as the new M300 printer has been released and it only uses ZHIPS so everybody is hoovering it up. I have two rolls of ZABS being delivered, with ZHIPS back ordered. I will going forward buy only ZHIPS I think, especially for bigger parts.
I have some more parts printed, but will post photos when I get a moment and its mounted on the model.
Got to admit I do love my printer, its a great enabler. Certainly means the Warrior recovery is much more likely to get built which is next after the CRARRV.......then maybe the Scimitar.
The lack of temperature control in the garage and the garage ability to plummet in temp to circa 5 deg C or lower means the 3d Printer gets more failed prints.
Normally I'm ok with that and I had tee'd up my wife to allowteh printer to come into the house.
But i know it makes a noise (think normal printer but going on for 3 to 24hrs depending on what your printing..... and my wife has an insane ability to hear noise...
Anyway, i was in the big smoke this weekend for my brothers wedding (glasgow) and this PM I suggested to the missus about having a wee wander around IKEA (i am firmly in the good books - ha).
Anyway I bought 3x LACK coffee tables, oak effect, for the cost of £6 each, its an insane bargain and one I felt I needed to snap up.
The idea is to produce a cheap cabinet to house the printer and fit an aquarium thermostat, heater and cooling fan. The idea is to have the cabinet sitting in a stable 25Deg C.
Andyway I have screwed two tables together, tomorrow I buy some perspex and some plywood and some hinges, so I can finish off the cabinet.
PS I cannot take credit for the whole idea I have amended a similar cabinet for a different printer, so far so good.
Have bought some perspex today so will maybe get a chance to complete the cabinet, will post picks soon.
Cabinent - structure - complete;
Webcam fitted (no more guessing on status);
Temperature controller - in the post;
Cooling fan - in the post
Reptile heater lamp - in the post;
So the "idea" is to have a reptile heater switched on by the temperature controller to heat unto 21C and have a cooling fan switched by the temperature controller at about 25C.
Hopefully this will avoid the cabinet spiking in temp above 30C.
I have to be careful as I don't want to bake the printer electrics, pretty sure the brochure says its good for 40C, but will need to double check.
I just want to simulate a warm room really, but with no draughts......
Have also been extremely busy with scouting stuff, being a parent and working, so not much in the way of free time.
Anyway, I ventured into the garage to take some measurements and undercoat the mechanics hatch (searching for inspiration here).
See photos below.
I have a huge list of jobs todo tomorrow, but hoping to carve out some time in the evening for me time
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